Melt and pour soap bases have made it fun to create lovely soaps for many occasions. These soap bases take the stress out of making soap the old fashioned way…with lye! I’m sure somebody somewhere had to do it, but I appreciate not having to deal with caustic chemical processes here at home. I seem to have selected a few of my favorites…like Aloe Vera and Shea Butter soap bases. I like the clear glycerin soap because it’s simple and can show off hidden objects embedded inside. It’s also great when I need to make an unscented soap for folks that prefer no scent.
My favorite aloe vera soap begins with a glycerin soap that has been enhanced with aloe vera gel. Then I combine it with a shea butter soap base, more aloe vera gel, essential oils and soap tint. The shea butter helps the finished make a better lather.
I have tried to incorporate Manuka Honey into melt and pour soap and was unsuccessful…the honey would no disperse into the melted soap and when I poured the mixture into molds, the glob of honey just ended up in one big pile at the end of the pour. Very disappointing!
When I last did a search on Amazon for melt and pour soap bases, this new Manuka Honey Soap base had recently been listed:
I had never seen this offered before. I quickly ordered a 2 lb. block to try. It cost $15, which was similar to other soap bases I had used before.
Here are the ingredients for this soap base:
The process to make bars of soap from a 2 lb. block is pretty much the same each time.
First, I cut the base up into smaller cubes and put half (1 lb. each) in a 4-cup heat-proof glass measuring cup. I set these into saucepans, added water to the pan and set them on the stove. Heating the water just to boiling and then turning down to simmer, the cubes of soap will slowly melt.
This soap was very firm and took a long time to melt.
When melted, I added Lavender essential oil, Manuka essential oil, Citrus Bliss blend essential oil and a few drops of yellow soap tint.
Then I poured it into molds.
When firm, I popped the bars out of the molds and gave one a try to wash my hands. I was very disappointed! The soap was so firm hat I couldn’t make any suds at all.
So…back to the kitchen!
I pulled out a pound of Goat’s Milk Soap base, chopped it into cubes and split it between the two measuring cups. Goat’s Milk soap should enhance the suds-making-ability of the Manuka Honey soap.
Then I cut up the original bars I had made and split them into the two measuring sups.
When melted I used different molds…figured I could use the small heart shaped soaps for Christmas gifts if they actually made a good lather!
So, now the test…could I actually wash my hands with the soap and get some suds?
Yes…adding a small portion of goat’s milk soap base enhanced it’s lather-making abilities!
Now, I just need to package the soaps…maybe 3 or 4 to a gift bag…and I’ve got my gifts ready for those “gift exchanges” that seem to come up each year! Enjoy!
This post is a continuation of Part 1 (See https://marykisner.com/tis-the-season-part-1-paper-soap-and-fabric/) Keep in mind that making gifts or decorations for the holidays is a great way to involve the whole family. Using clay (polymer or air-dry) is familiar to most folks. The youngest have used some kind of play dough since preschool. Older folks may not have worked with clay, but the physical manipulation of soft moldable stuff is similar to working with bread dough in the kitchen or even putty in the workshop.
The two kids of clay I’d like to share are Polymer Oven-Bake Clay and Air-Dry Modeling Clay.
Polymer Oven-Bake Clay
This clay comes in small, 2 oz. packages. There are several brands available and many colors. The Sculpey brand shown above is my preference because it’s a little softer to work with. The best thing about oven-bake clay is that it can be molded and remolded as desired until you like the finished product. Unused pieces of clay can be stored in a zip lock plastic bag and easily used another day. Once you have determined you are done making something, then it is baked in the oven (or toaster oven). When completely cooled, it is firm and unbreakable. At that point it can be painted or shined with mica powder as desired.
Young children can enjoy working with this clay and the final process of baking can be handled by an adult.
Basic Tools to Work with Polymer Clay
This clay will need to be worked on a firm surface. I have a piece of thick 3/8″ class that Bert got from the local glass business. I can use it right on top of my tablecloth. It gives me a firm surface that is easy to clean after working with the clay.
These are the basic tools you will need:
–a rolling pin or something easily washable
–a long blade to slide under pieces of clay to remove them from the work surface
–assorted hand tools to mark, poke or cut pieces of clay
–a plastic straw to make a hole just the right size to hang your project, if desired
–an oven or toaster oven to bake the finished project. (I have an old toaster oven that is dedicated to baking this clay)
Note: If you will be using your regular oven, consider making a smaller “oven” space with disposable foil roasting pans. The clay will emit fumes that you might not want on the next meal you bake. Just take two large roasting pans, make one the lid and clip them together with binder clips. Objects will need to bake for about 30 minutes at 265 degrees F.)
Making Flat Objects with Polymer Clay
To make flat objects with this clay, you will need to flatten it out with a roller of some kind. Then you may want to press a design into the clay. Almost any item with an interesting texture can be used to make a design. Here are just a few ideas:
Interesting designs on rollers that are used in working with fondant are available in the cake decorating section of a craft store. Many stamps that are also used with ink can press a design into the clay. Acrylic shapes often come in craft magazines. They can be peeled off the plastic and placed into an acrylic block. This is then used to press the design into the clay.
Cutting Out Shapes in Polymer Clay
Once you have a design pressed into the clay, choose a shape to cut out the final piece. (If you cut out the shape first, pressing the dough may change the shape…so press designs first.)
Now is a good time to pull out any cookie cutters you have. The metal ones are sharper and will give you a clean edge. The tiny cutters above can be used to make decorative holes…or cut clay pieces in a different color to glue on to the finished product after baking.
Samples of Flat Objects
Here are some examples of things I’ve made over the years. Most seem to end up as ornaments for Christmas.
I used several colors of clay and rolled and folded them together before rolling the clay out to cut out the circles.These were basically flat pieces when I pressed designs and cut holes. Then I stood them up and anchored them to a flat round base of clay. They couldn’t be any taller because of the size limits of the toaster oven. The little LED lights were just perfect!
Free Hand Clay Objects
When I first started working with polymer clay, I found many ideas on Pinterest. I started with miniature plants. It looked so easy…not! My first few plants were probably all I’ll ever make, but they’ll last forever!
Then I thought I’d try a tiny trumpet and drums for my grandkids.
Making objects in the shape of an animal is definitely not my strength. However, if you can follow directions, you will find many great ideas on Pinterest. These step-by-step instructions will appeal to a generation of folks that were raised on LEGO instructions! Check out how to make a Turtle!
From Pinterest.
The best surprise was my Christmas present from my grandkids the year I was working with all this clay. I had given them an assortment of clay and tools and we had fun playing with them When Christmas rolled around, they gifted me my own crate of clay vegetables…perfect for a gardening grandma!
I think my grandson, age 12 or 13, had fun making the garden produce!And my very own rainbow heart from the youngest granddaughter!
Air-Dry Modeling Clay
After working with Polymer Oven-bake Clay, I found working with Air-Dry clay difficult. It was not as forgiving and started to dry very quickly. It tended to crack easily, so pieces had to be thick enough. Solid objects took forever to dry completely.
So, my work with this clay focused on smaller circles of clay that could be quickly pressed with a design and left to dry. I did find that pieces had to be at least 1/4″ thick or more or they would not dry flat. I spent the day carefully turning each piece over as they dried.
The best advantage of using air-dry clay, was its ability to absorb essential oils. Now I had a way to capture my favorite oil scent to make my drawers and closets smell good. I also made a bunch of Christmas ornaments that could be soaked with the scent of the holidays to add to the Christmas tree. So, this clay has its uses.
Making clay objects or holiday decorations with kids and grandkids can be a fun way to get everyone involved. Skill levels can vary and everyone can participate. Enjoy!
I’ve recently had to switch to using a bar of soap in the shower from a liquid shower soap. I guess there are too many chemicals in the liquid and even ones that say “for sensitive skin” just make me itch all over! Since I’ve had good luck with my Aloe Vera soap for my hands, I thought I could easily just use that in the shower.
However…not so fast! It has been many years since I’ve used a bar of soap in the shower and it kind of depends on the soap’s ability to make a lather on the washcloth. My Aloe Vera soap does not easily make a lather. I know this particular soap does not make me itch, so all I had to do was figure out how to use it in the shower without a washcloth.
A little research online and asking around provided several choices. I found gloves and pouches made of a loofa-type texture that were supposed to work. I ordered some online, like the ones below:
These gloves fit so tightly I wasn’t sure I’d ever get them off! And I felt like I had a sunburn because they were so efficient at exfoliating.This pouch came with a special “natural” body soap. It also felt like a loofa sponge!These pouches were not scratchy but they were stretchy when dry. They were VERY stretchy when wet! The white one on the left did allow the bar to make a lather but it was hard to hold onto in the shower.
I also found patterns to crochet a pouch, using cotton yarn that is also used for pot holders and doilies. I made a trip to Wal Mart and picked up crochet yarn.
I started with the light green cotton yarn and just used a simple single crochet stitch, using an H hook, starting with 25 stitches. It made a small pouch for one of my small heart-shaped soaps.
It didn’t work in the shower…the suds hardly made it through the bag so I could wash with it. I guess I needed more holes. Plus the bag held the water, so even after 24 hours it had not dried out.
So finally I made the small bag with the white crochet cotton. It has more holes and should not get so heavy when wet.
What a process! If this last one works, I may make some to package with my soaps for Christmas presents! Let me know if you have found a solution to using a bar soap in the shower! Enjoy!
This week I was determined to choose a new quilt block that I could paint on wood. I wanted something different and colorful for Autumn. I enjoyed painting my first two blocks and you can see them below. If you want to read how I made them, click on the link under each picture.
For the Autumn block I wanted something totally different. I pulled out my favorite book for ideas:
This book organizes quilt block designs by the grid they are based on:
And followed by pages and pages and pages of sample blocks! Thank goodness there is an index, by names, of all the patterns. I usually start by just browsing through the book. So many choices!
I ended up choosing this block:
This was based on a 4 x 4 grid.
Next to the picture was a number and the name was in the list to the left.
I really liked how different the block was and figured I could make the flower in orange, which would make me think of all the autumn flowers I see right now. I don’t think it matters that it’s called a “Lily”–I can call it anything I want!
Making the Sample Block
I like to start with a 3″ x 3″ tiny canvas. It helps me visualize the layout on a small scale. I don’t worry about making mistakes or erasing pencil marks. When I make this sample, I can decide if I like the colors I’ve chosen. It’s much easier to throw it away and start over if I need to.
I can see the extra internal lines are not necessary and distract from the pattern. I do like the orange and green.
Making the Full-Size Block
Step 1: I pulled out the 12″ x 12″ piece of 3/8″ plywood that Bert had cut out for me and sketched out the pattern with a pencil.
I did erase the internal lines because they will show through the white and orange paint.
Step 2: I flipped the wood over and painted the back and edges white just to protect the wood from the weather.
Step 3: I painted the first coat of orange and green. I can still see the internal lines so a second coat is necessary.
I used a fine point marker to outline the basic shapes. I like it!
Final Step: I will spray both sides of the block with a clear acrylic spray so it can handle the weather on the front door. Finally, Bert will attach magnets to the back so it will stick to the front door! Yea!
I think this block will be cheerful this fall and will show through the screen door well. Don’t be afraid to experiment!
Not enough sleep? Allergies making you look like you didn’t get enough sleep? For a while I’ve wanted to try this recipe for an eye cream. I had seen various brands of specialty eye cream for sale but somehow the cost seemed extreme. when I stumbled upon this recipe on one of my favorite websites, I thought I’d give it a try (https://joybileefarm.com/diy-eye-cream/). This author has many DIY recipes that are easy to follow and she provides good supporting research on the ingredients used. Many of the products I make started with one of her recipes. Check it out.
For this eye cream, the cost of the ingredients made a good case for just ordering something already made. However, where would be the fun in that! I’m always trying to find and use products that have the least amount of chemicals and artificial ingredients. The older I get, the more sensitive I am to various products I use. Plus, if I can make it myself, I’ll be able to make more if I need to. That makes me smile!
This eye cream begins by making a coffee-infused oil, similar to the infused oils I’ve made with calendula and lavender flower buds, except it took longer because I couldn’t simmer it on the stove and be done in one day. This recipe required me to soak coffee grounds in rosehip seed oil for a week, shaking the jar every day.
I put the jar on my desk so I could keep an eye on it and finally today I strained out the grounds. No small task! The grounds had made a thick sludge on the bottom that I could barely scrape out. Next time I’ll use more oil (and possibly substitute Sunflower oil, which is less expensive) so I can keep it loose…maybe even open the jar and stir it up with a long-handled spoon.
After pouring out as much as I could to strain out the oil, I ended up scraping the grounds, filling the jar with soap water and dumping the slurry outside. I didn’t want that oily mess going down the drain.
Pretty disgusting!
I lined my strainer with cheesecloth and poured the oil through it. When it finished draining, I picked up the cheesecloth mess and threw it in the garbage.
Then, I strained it twice more, finally using four layers of cheesecloth to filter out the last of the grounds.
Finally, the grounds are gone!
Now, I was ready to use this coffee-infused oil in the recipe for the Eye Cream. Here is the recipe:
The beeswax, rosehip seed oil and coffee-infused oil melted together first.
It didn’t take long to melt the beeswax. Then, I added these oils and stirred them in:
Using a disposable pipette I filled the lip balm tubes (sorry, forgot to take a picture!)
When they were cool, I labeled them and made the ingredient cards to go with them. I’ll have to figure out how much information to put on the back of the card. I’d like to include the last two paragraphs of the recipe on the card:
Hopefully, I’ll find some willing friends to test the cream with me to see if it actually works!
All the ingredients are available on Amazon…I did pick up the ground coffee at the grocery store. Give it a try! Enjoy!
The next one I chose has several names. In one book it’s called Blazing Star, and in another it has had 5 other names!
I guess I’ll go with Blazing Star or Flaming Star. It appealed to me in its simplicity and made me think of all the stars on a summer night!
Since I don’t have an actual pattern, it helped to have it identified as being on a template of a 4-patch quilt block.
Making the Small Sample Block
I have learned to always make a miniature block first so I can figure out the dimensions of the sections. Painting the block also helps me visualize the colors better before I actually start on the 12″ x 12″ block of wood.
This is a 3″ square miniature canvas. I marked it into smaller squares each 1/4″. On the larger block of wood, each 1/4″ will be equal to 1″.
This took me a little while to figure out the angle for the star points in the background…as shown by all my pencil lines and erasures! That’s why I do this in pencil on a small one first!
And then I tested my color choices:
I started with the darkest color (that really is purple!), then yellow, and finally the gray background. Not very exciting but it reminded me of a night sky with all the stars out.
Making the Larger Block
With my shapes determined I shouldn’t have any pencil lines showing through the yellow paint.First two colors.Finished block…waiting for Bert to put the magnets on the back!And of course, the yellow looks totally different in daylight! I like it!
It’s been fun to try this new kind of quilt block. Now I have a month or two to figure out what pattern to do next. I’m probably good until Labor Day now!
My miniatures are also reminding me what I’ve already done…my own little art gallery! Enjoy!
I may still do the two on the left on larger wood. So many patterns to choose from!
If you have been following my various activities, you know that not all of my projects are successful. Some of the recipes for baking sound yummy on paper, but end up being boring, tasteless, etc. A few of my body care formulations seem easy to follow but I end up with a product that just isn’t something I’d ever use or share. That doesn’t stop me from trying to make something new!
I came across a new recipe for a solid perfume that sounded like it might work. For one thing, it had way more essential oil incorporated into the mix. For another, the procedure was a little different so I thought I’d give it one more try!
Here is the recipe:
I first needed to order two of the essential oils that are listed but I did not have…Vetiver and Cinnamon Bark essential oils. Since I can’t rely on my nose to tell me what this combination would smell like, I just followed the recipe.
Once I had all the essential oils, I began with the beeswax and Jojoba oil. I measured them into a heat-safe glass cup and set the cup in a pan of water on the stove.
Heating the pan of water on the stove did not take long.
When melted, I removed the cup from the boiling water and started stirring. Let me tell you…I very quickly decided I would be there for a very long time waiting for it to get to room temperature!
I stirred for a while but then decided to just start adding the various oils. I stirred well between each addition. I did not see it turn into a “soft butter” consistency. I was too impatient!
Then I poured the mixture into my tiny containers.
It took less than 30 minutes to cool and set up.
It looks like it was successful! It is not a flowery scent…more subtle and woodsy. I smell the sandalwood first but I suspect over time, the other scents will be noticeable. We’ll see how it is in a few days. This will need to be applied over a larger area, but I think I’ll enjoy it!
So, don’t be afraid to experiment…sometimes you discover something new! Enjoy!
I finally finished my first attempt to make a door quilt on a piece of 12″ x 12″ plywood. I was determined to make this painting on wood that hopefully would maintain it’s bright colors. Fabric quilt blocks were my original solution to needing a door decoration that would fit in the flatter space between the front door and the screen door. Last year I managed to make six quilt blocks that solved the problem, but when I started pulling them out this year the colors had faded and looked pretty sad. (See https://marykisner.com/prepping-for-new-door-quilts/).
So, I had Bert cut two pieces of 12″ x 12″ plywood for me to play with (just in case it didn’t work, no point in having a bunch cut out!). First, I wanted to replace the fabric patriotic quilt block that was on the door right now:
This picture was taken when I first put it up last year…nice bright colors.
I first painted the block, both sides, with a base coat of white. When dry I sketched out the pattern and put a second coat of white paint on the corresponding white sections:
This looked pretty easy but I was re-learning how to use various brushes. Not as easy as I thought it would be!
Then I started with the red paint and filled in those sections. It took a second coat to get the solid color.
I’m certainly not as steady as I should be to do those straight lines!
Then I filled in the blue sections:
Now the dilemma…the original pattern had white stars on the blue squares. I did that with some fabric that had stars in the pattern and managed to get at least one white star centered in the block. However, how to do that with paint? After seeing how unsteady I was with a tiny brush, I did a quick run to JoAnn Fabric Store and picked up some embroidered appliques of stars. Perfect!
After finishing the block with a satin finish acrylic spray, I just glued the stars to the blue squares!
Funny how different light made the colors brighter!
The block sat on my old organ by the front door for a week until Bert had time to figure out how to hang it on the front door. It couldn’t be hung the way the fabric blocks were because we have a door knocker right in the middle. The fabric blocks just draped over that with no problem.
Bert finally had to put magnets on the back (the door is metal under the paint!).
Now the block has to sit below the door knocker.
Oh well…now to see if the paint fades over time. This block should be appropriate through the 4th of July holiday. I’ll have to think about whether it’s worth it to make more in wood. Enjoy!
Hot summer days bring to mind how annoying mosquito bites can be. Preventing them is the first line of defense. The bug deterrent I made for dogs (and people) can help (see https://marykisner.com/natural-bug-repellent-for-dogs/); or any bug repellent you are comfortable using. However, the itching from a bite can prolong the agony for days.
I found a simple recipe on a website I read frequently and thought I’d give it a try (https://joybileefarm.com/lavender-tea-tree-roll-on-stick/). My plan is to make a bunch and share it to see if it actually works. Here is my modified recipe:
While I was collecting the supplies I thought about the ingredients. I had grapeseed oil and lavender essential oil on hand. I also have tea tree essential oil available, but after all my research about manuka essential oil, I thought I would try substituting it for the tea tree oil.
What’s the Difference Between Tea Tree and Manuka Essential Oils?
Tea tree oil has been considered the industry standard since World War II for many topical and household applications due to its antifungal and antibacterial properties. It is considered safe and effective to be used as an insect repellent, household cleaner and dandruff shampoo. It has been used to soothe bug bites, sunburns and rashes. However, it has a strong scent and can be irritating to some people, including children.
Manuka essential oil, while new on the market, has also been shown to have powerful antibacterial and antifungal properties. It is great for soothing sore muscles and itching from bug bites and sunburns. Manuka oil also had 20-30 times the antibacterial activity as Tea Tree oil. It is less irritating to sensitive adults, is safe for children AND it smells good!
Therefore, I substituted Manuka essential oil for the Tea Tree oil in this recipe.
Here are the ingredients for this mixture:
I knew that the little cup I saved from when I had kids had the 10 ml mark on the side and would be perfect to measure out the grapeseed oil. I just filled it to below the 10 ml line. It was much easier to dispense than the big bottle of oil.
I discovered after the first few I made that the 2 tsp. of grapeseed oil needed to be little less. The roller ball holds 10 ml (which is 2 tsp.). When I added the full 2 tsp. of grapeseed oil plus the 10 drops of essential oil it was so full I couldn’t get the roller ball snapped in. I ended up adding only 9 ml instead.
I set out 18 roller balls and filled 6 at a time, capped them and set them upside down along the back of the tray to help the oils mix.
I made 18 because I wanted to share them with some friends. I will need their feedback to see if rolling on some of this oil mixture really helps soothe the itch of a bug bite. We’ll see!
Of course, everything I make and give away needs information about what is in the product. I want folks to know before they put anything on their skin. Give this recipe a try yourself! Enjoy!
I’m getting ready to make another batch of natural bug repellent and remembered my recipe calls for Lavender Hydrosol. When I wrote my original article about this recipe last Spring I just followed the recipe. You can see the article here: https://marykisner.com/natural-bug-repellent-for-dogs/.
Here is the final recipe for this repellent:
This recipe is only approved for dogs (and is actually safe for humans too!). Cats are very sensitive to several of the essential oils in this mix and when they lick their fur, they ingest them. Not safe!
I ordered Lavender Hydrosol from Amazon…starting with a small bottle and then went to this quart jug so I could mix up enough for Nittany Greyhounds:
I did a little research that reminded me that this is basically lavender water…that is a byproduct from the distillation process of extracting lavender essential oil…and it is water soluble. Since my recipe called for lavender hydrosol and essential oils they would not stay mixed. I had to add an emulsifier to help them disperse. Polysorbate20 was recommended in the recipe.
Here are the ingredients in this natural bug repellent.It was packaged in a bottle that worked better for shipping…with an empty spray bottle provided. If I make only one for myself, I mix it directly in the spray bottle.
Learning More About Hydrosols
This year I wanted to know more about Hydrosols. I found this book that was very helpful:
This book, Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy by Suzanne Catty, has a wealth of information about how hydrosols are made, how the field of aromatherapy is maturing and how the production of hydrosols is becoming more consistent around the world. The author’s research provides many recipes to use hydrosols, from skin care products to using them in cooking to enhance flavors. While few essential oils are safe for babies (and even cats), hydrosols could be just the right product for many of those products.
Next, I did a search online for sources of hydrosols. Many companies that sell essential oils also offer hydrosols of those same plants. One company had a great article about hydrosols with the following illustration:
On another site, www.edenbotanicals.com I was able to order a set of 8 tiny spray bottles that would let me try them. So…these are very tiny samples, but might give me some ideas for future products.
These include Chamomile, Cucumber, Geranium Rose, Lavender, Rose, Tulsi (Holy Basil) and Tumeric Hydrosols.
I can see there is so much more to learn about Hydrosols; I’ve barely scratched the surface! Look for Hydrosols to appear in some of my future products! Enjoy!
